Disclaimer
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Following are the steps I performed on my two Rossi’s to slick them up and improve functioning. Work slowly and carefully and check functioning frequently. It’s always easy to remove a little more metal, but adding metal is very difficult. As we learn, we may have to replace a part or two that we over work. That's part of the risk of the adventure.
Warning: Disassembling and tinkering with your firearm may void the warranty. I claim no responsibility for use or misuse of these instructions; proceed at your own risk!
Disassemble the rifle and thoroughly clean all parts
Trigger Assembly
____1. Polish sides of trigger
____2. Polish trigger spring and trigger mating surface
____3. Lighten trigger spring by bending up
____4. Stone/polish hammer mating surfaces inside the lower tang
____5. Polish trigger pivot pin
Hammer Assembly
____1. Polish hammer strut
____2. Polish hammer sides where they contact the lower tang
____3. Polish hammer face
____4. Remove 3-4 coils from mainspring and flatten end, or replace with Wolff 19lb Vaquero mainspring
____5. Polish hammer pivot pin
Carrier
____1. If the carrier is too tight in the receiver, remove some metal from the right side of the carrier.
____2. Polish both sides of the carrier at the pivot pin holes
Ejector Assembly
____1. Remove all burrs
____2. Polish shaft
____3. Polish all mating surfaces
____4. Work the ejector spring only if necessary as follows:
____4.1. Assemble the ejector, ejector spring, and ejector collar and insert into the bolt.
____4.2. If the ejector protrudes about 1/4” from the front of the bolt, remove 2 coils from the ejector spring and flatten end (NOTE: When reassembling the bolt the ejector will lie almost flat with the bolt face. This is alright because once the finger lever is in place the ejector spring will be under tension.)
____4.3. If the ejector lies almost flat against the bolt face, do not remove any coils from the ejector spring.
____5. Polish collar ends
Finger Lever
____1. Polish ejector collar camming surface
____2. Polish lever retaining pin (only if necessary).
(NOTE: This is the pin in the rear of the finger lever that sits in a detent in the receiver and holds the lever closed.)____3. Polish front and camming surfaces of bolt locks
Loading Gate
Sometimes the loading gate is too long and the cartridge rims get stuck on the sharp end of the gate.
____1. Use a stone to remove just enough metal off the end, and maintain the same contour. The end of the loading gate should sit almost flush in the receiver. (NOTE: This is important to ensure the last round loaded into a full magazine will feed properly.) Do not remove too much metal or the loading gate will protrude from the receiver
____2. Make sure the sides of the gate move freely in the receiver opening. If not, lightly stone the sides of the gate until it moves freely.
____3. Polish the ramp on the back of the gate (only if necessary). This helps the cartridge to be positioned correctly for loading on the carrier. The secret is to make a few strokes on the stone, then try for fit. The goal is to get the gate to fit in the opening almost flush without sticking out.
Bolt Assembly
____1. Polish hammer camming surface on the rear of the firing pin
____2. Polish hammer camming surface underneath rear of bolt
____3. Remove burrs and loose metal
____4. Polish sides and rails
____5. Ensure ejector rides smoothly in ejector cutout
____6. Polish front of bolt lock camming surfaces
____7. If extractor is too stiff when the bolt closes without a case, remove metal from the REAR of the extractor until there is still a small amount of tension on the extractor.
Receiver
____1. Remove burrs and polish bolt rails. Try bolt in receiver to test for free travel. Stone and polish any high spots
When reassembling the rifle, be sure all parts are lightly lubricated. Too much oil attracts dirt, too little oil causes excessive wear and friction.